Moss Temple, Part I

It is complicated to see the Moss Temple -- you have to apply by postcard at least a week in advance, then they reply by postcard.  They have only two admissions times each day, and in some seasons, they are full.  Well, Kyoto was NOT full of tourists this spring, and our Guest House helped us with the arrangements.  There were maybe 20 or 25 people only.  Very sparse for the large groundsl.

We started by copying the sutras on desks that were outside.  This is a spiritual practice that I have seen before, but never participated in. We purchased a special brush pen, and they gave us lightly printed sutras to literally ink over.  Since we could not read the kanji characters, it was a bit mindless.  I tried to make the strokes in the right order (Did you not know there was a right order?  For example a square is made with three strokes.  Vertical on the left side , then top and right side as one stroke, then across the bottom from left to right.). It was very soothing and peaceful.

It put everyone in a quiet and mellow mood for almost 2 hours of wandering the Temple grounds. 

Hiking from Kurama to Kibune with Ebi

We originally met our friend Ebi on a hiking club trip in Japan in 2013; then she visited us in the US.  I met up with her a couple of summers ago, and now Will and I both had the chance to spend the day with her in Japan.  She is originally from Bahrain, has a Master's degree from Japan and is now in a Ph.D. program in Japan. 

A little train goes up into the mountains to Kurama, and then you hike over the mountains to another little town, Kibune, and take the train back to Kyoto from another stop.  I did this hike with Nick in the past.  It is a great mix of culture and nature!  Old shrines, great views!

Hozu-gawa River Boat

We were saving this for a nice day.  When Will and I got a good day, we headed out.  A train ride and a 15 minute walk took us to the start of the 2 hour ride in a wooden boat down the Hozu-gawa river from Kameoka to Arishiyama (at the edge of Tokyo). Note that mid day mid-week the train was not very crowded.   Maybe 20 people in a boat.  Perhaps not socially distanced, but certainly out in the fresh moving air.

Tracing the cherry blossoms around the globe

In Tokyo this weekend, the snow and a plea from the Mayor are keeping people from going out to see the cherry blossoms.  IN DC they literally blocked the streets with Garbage Trucks to keep people from seeing the blossoms.

But we saw our first blossoms in Zentsuji, on the Island of Shikoku on March 7th

Then we saw early cherry blossoms in Kyoto at the end of the trip to the Moss Temple

Then we returned to the US and saw cherry blossoms out and about in the Arlington neighborhood.

And finally, our very own double cherry, approximately 70 years old, put out its first full blossom TODAY!

Perhaps this blog can serve as a virtual cherry blossom viewing party (ohanami)

Precious gifts

We give special thanks for the precious gifts that we have been given.

My first stop in Japan was visiting Amara's long time friend, Chieko -- such a special friend that she is called Amara's Okaasan.  When I left I was given 3 face masks -- even in the middle of February, there were a precious commodity.  Although they are not supposed to be reused, I did reuse them and kept one unused for the trip home.  She also gave me a pair of lacquer chopsticks -- and later in Kyoto, I visited a lacquerware workshop.  And she gave me a pair of chopsticks for Will, though she never got to meet him.  We left in a hurry, and did not get ourselves any souvenirs -- so these chopsticks will be great reminders of the trip.

The second stop was visiting my long-time colleague, Koichi.  We have kept in touch and worked together for more than 30 years at this point.  From him we got not only nice memories of him, his wife, his daughter and his grandchildren, and nice memories of our trip into the countryside, but also three small (suitcase-suitable size) tiles.  Again, these serve as the souvenirs that we did not buy.

On their way out of town, Calli and Keith shopped for groceries for us.  Since we are keeping to ourselves for 14 days of self-quarantine, we visited through the window.  Good food to nourish us and to keep up our immunity.  Calli and Keith have been loaned a car, and loaned a house in South Carolina.  Working "from home" can take place most anywhere.  They will be able to spread out more than in their tiny apartment. 

A few days after we came home, Joe came by with two rolls of toilet paper AND two homemade masks that Debbie had made.  There were three rolls left in the house when we arrived -- with two more, we are in good shape.  And the homemade masks will be good in another week when we will take our own trip to the grocery store.

And yesterday Jim brought us another set of groceries.  I gave him some rather general directions because the supplies in the stores are limited.  For leafy greens, we got both Romaine lettuce and swiss chard!  I also asked if Jim had any seeds.  Watching something grow could be very cheering in these isolated times.  From his gift, I have planted sugar peas, sweet pea flowers, and sunflowers.  And he shared his supply of malt for baking bread.  Stores do not have whole wheat bread, but I have some left, and the first two loaves have been good. 

We are very fortunate to have such good friends around the world!

The Cricket Temple and Coronavirus

Kegon-ji Temple (Suzumushidera)

The Cricket Temple is just down the road from the Moss Temple, so we wanted to stop by.  It is called the Cricket Temple because crickets can be heard year round.  Everyone can get one wish at the exit, and it is considered a good idea to return and give thanks if the wish comes true.  The sign on the post said that because of coronavirus, they were grouping people to enter on the hour.

About 50 or more people were gathered on the stairs waiting for the opening.  Will and I stood apart to keep our 6 feet.  When they got in, the Japanese went into a small room for a 30 minute (or longer) lesson.  We were given the wrapped sweet and allowed to explore the garden freely rather than listen to the lecture.  I cannot imagine that the crowded room was a good idea in the time of Coronavirus!

In fact, I am seriously worried about Japan and coronavirus.  One of the reasons they have low levels is that they have not been testing.  Not only are there events like at the Temple, but they still are having graduations during the last weeks of March.  Some employers ask people to take their temperature every day before coming to work.  People stay home if they have a fever, but otherwise go to work.  Now the cherry blossoms are out.  In DC they literally used garbage trucks to block off the roads so that people would not get near the Tidal Basin to view the cherry blossoms.  In Tokyo, residents have been asked to stay home this weekend -- but the first thing everyone did on hearing this was to run to crowded grocery stores. And it remains to be seen if they will be avoiding going to see cherry blossoms.

Why is my neighbor thanking me?

We talked across the fence -- and well more than 6 feet apart.  My neighbor works in health care, and she is thanking me for staying home.  If we can contain the spread of coronavirus (and even flu) by having people stay home where they are not exposed, it will make her job safer.  Both of my daughters-in-law have sisters who work in health care, and Mary Beth's Mom is a nurse.  Not only are we protecting old and vulnerable people, we are also protecting health care workers.

Pictures are from my yard

Wending our way home

CDC is not terribly concerned about airplanes.  Nor are they recommending masks, even on planes.  But, before going, we collected disposable gloves (drug store), masks (gifts from Will's ship, and an actual N95 from a hardware store in Arcata California), disinfectant wipes (grocery store), and hand sanitizer (the last little bit remaining from our original bottle).  

As soon as we decided to return, we had to ask our housesitter and her relatives to find someplace else to live.  We were all fortunate that they found two rooms with a couple in Annandale.  Since they were working and studying from home, the distance from DC did not matter.  

The guest house called a taxi to come right to the gate of the Temple, and to take us right to the back of the train station where the Shinkansen (bullet train) departs.  The guest house  had also printed out the itinerary so that I could buy the tickets the day ahead.  We got off the Shinkansen at the stop before the huge Tokyo station.  We were early enough to catch an earlier train.

The train went past Fuji-san, Mt Fuji.  Not many days offer a clear view -- it was a treat!  And maybe a good omen.

At Shinagawa, we quickly chose two "ekibento".  Each city has its bento specialty -- sold at its "eki", train station.

We checked in easily, got through all the formalities easily and sat around for a while.  

Will took his meds and got on the plane -- for the first flight in 50 years.  He did fine.

Who else was flying with us?  Plane was not full.  One person in the row behind us, one person in the row in front of us.  There were some families -- maybe public or private employees returning to the US.  Many young people, with their travels cut short like ours.  We were the oldest people on the plane.   

As we were flying home, the State Department was changing Japan to Level 3 -- no unnecessary travel.  I think we made the right call.

Changed planes in Atlanta, and arrived at Dulles around midnight.  Almost no lines.  Airport was empty.  No hassles, just a warm "Welcome back to the US".

Took a taxi home.  Disinfected.  Took off all our clothes by the washing machine, showered, and crashed.  Still struggling a bit with jet lag.

Someday you will want to find the Shunkoin Temple, Zen Center, and Guest House

Reverend Takafumi KawakamiVice Abbot/ International Affairs Coordinator  at Shunkoin Temple
The Fellow of the U.S.-Japan Leadership Program by the U.S.-Japan Foundation

Researcher at the Keio Media Design in Keio University

Mindfulness Instructor

Shunkoin Temple & Zen Center

Website: http://www.shunkoin.com
Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/RevTakaZen
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Shunkoin-Temple-Zen-Center/141188892619012

42 Myoshinji-Cho, Hanazono, Ukyo-Ku,
Kyoto, Kyoto 616-8035
JAPAN

Phone: 075-462-5488
International: +81.75.462.5488
Mobile: 090-5667-8992

We did a meditation class; they also offer classes in calligraphy, and offer a tea ceremony experience.  The calm of the place nurtures the spirit!

Do they still wear kimono?

When I first came to Japan 30 years ago, it was mostly older women who wore the traditional kimono.  And there are still a few older women in kimono, but now it seems to a fairly usual outing for a young couple (both dressed in traditional clothes), or a group of young women, or even occasionally, a group of young men. I did not want to be too invasive with taking pictures, but I could not resist capturing some of this.  This batch of pictures comes from Arashiyama -- a beautiful spot with a UNESCO World Heritage Temple, river, and scenic path through the bamboo forest.  Today's required accessory for the kimono seems to be a cell phone, and maybe a selfie stick.