What has changed in the 25 years since I lived here before?

Very little.

The air quality is better, and there are not belching smokestacks. There is seldom open burning.  (Though smaller towns do have some open burning.)

Children's playgrounds had rusting equipment and weedy yards 25 years ago -- they still do.

I see more father's carrying and playing with their babies.

There is less visible pornography.

You can still get beer, cigarettes, and sake out of vending machines.

Children still wear school uniforms for middle school and high school.

Most everyone is still quiet, polite, and well dressed.

More Japanese families seem to be tourists, but perhaps it appears that way because I am in Kyoto. The biggest groups of tourists come from Taiwan, China, and South Korea.

There are still a myriad of small shops and small restaurants on regular streets and in covered markets.

There still appears to be a recession, but the news indicates that things are looking up.

"Universal accommodations" has meant that many of the squat toilets now have grab bars to facilitate getting up.

There are still no paper towels or air driers in the bathrooms (bring your own handkerchief), though there is now usually toilet paper -- which used to be another bring-your-own-item.

Bathrooms smell better.