Hiking near Nara -- Yama-no-be-michi

Nick and I set out for a hike near Nara last weekend.  We chose one that is recommended in "Hiking in Japan": Yama-no-be-no-michi.   First, when we got off the train, we saw several large hotel-like buildings in the direction of the temple complex that we were to pass through.  Less than 200 years ago, a 41-year old woman had started this new branch of Buddhism, and there are now 3,000,000 followers worldwide. What we were seeing was lots of housing for the pilgrims.

Then we entered 3 or 4 blocks of covered market.  There was the usual assortment of pickle shops, sweet shops, small restaurants, small hardware-type shops, clothes shops, etc.  Plus there were a large number of religious shops with statues, clothes, incense.

As Nick was in the bathroom, a man came by and asked if he could practice English with me.  I agreed to do so for a few minutes.  First he asked if I was a believer.  He was pleased that I could tell him somethings about this sect.  He was a believer, and was born and lived in this town.

Next we entered the grounds of the huge temple, and entered the main temple building.  As with the other temples, there were 3 large areas (right, left and center), but in this case, each was large enough to probably seat a thousand people on the tatami mats.  There were only 50 people there at that moment, but they were worshiping with hand motions and some chanting/singing.  It was an incredibly peaceful spot (and out of the sun).

Nick and I had bought bentos (lunches) as the trail turned past a "Family Mart" conbini (convenience store)  on its way to the edge of town.  As soon as we were in more countryside, we ate our lunch by bamboo, cooled by the sounds of a stream.  Even with the high heat, we agreed to go along a bit further.  The trail was puzzling, and it was hot, so we decided to follow the signs with maple leaves (to guide those seeking fall colors) because they went into the cooler woods.

Those signs did lead us into the side entrance of the small temple that was out next stop.  From there the trail lead past some rice fields, persimmon trees, and grape vines.  We also passed the site of a very old, now gone, temple from 1100.

In the distance we heard some shouting, chanting, and metallic drumming.  Those sounds faded, then started up again around another bend.  I suggested that this might be some celebration for Obon, the welcoming back of the spirits of the ancestors that is underway.  I also suggested that there were many parts of the world where the enthusiasm and even aggression of those noises might have been scary.

Finally, in the distance, we saw the high net fences that indicate a baseball field!  We had been hearing enthusiastic cheering for local games!

Next stop was a "small rural shrine" that was closed up.  There was, however, shade, and benches for resting.  This was another peaceful place.

A little further along, 3 hikers were coming out of a shed-like building. They explained that for 100 yen we could get a dish of watermelon out of the fridge, and that we could have free mugicha (roasted barley tea).  This proved another nice shady resting stop.  We pretty much ignored the small town with "traditional Japanese homes" because it looked more or less like Kyoto.

At that point, it was too hot to go on, so we cut short the hike by walking a kilometer or so to the next train station, and returned to Kyoto.  The weather report seemed to indicate a high of 97 (plus high humidity) -- no wonder we were hot!