The ship arrived along the delta that had been inundated by the 2008
typhoon -- 200,000 to 300,000 people died. The US offered to help, and
our offer was refused.
Along the Yangon river, the colors were mostly shades of brown, with a
little dark green. Our ship docked at the new port, in a rural outlying
area. The first trip into town was eye-opening. Again there were
largely shades of brown with some dark green. At every crossroad there
were people waiting, and stands set up to sell snacks. It turns out
that people were waiting for infrequent and overcrowded buses -- and so
selling snack to those people made sense.
We were overwhelmed with the trash along the road. Actually, near the
food stands there was less trash. Later we watched as people swept up
the trash in the mornings, raising large quantities of dust, and lit the
little piles of trash on fire to burn them. The trash included a lot
of plastic, and the irritation in my eyes was probably related to the
burning plastic, as well as the burning of the nearby rice fields.
And the men really did wear skirts -- longyi. And the women and
children (and occasionally men) really did wear the yellow bark extract
on their faces. It is supposed to keep the skin soft, partly by
providing protection from the sun. In another couple of days, we were
completely acclimated and did not notice these things.
We did a Semester at Sea day trip to another outlying area. After
taking the bus into town, we took a crowded 2-story ferry across the
Yangon river to a crowded landing area. People were boarding the ferry
at the same time as people were disembarking -- general chaos. Venders
were selling quail eggs, dried snacks, guava, date/plum-like fruit and
other food. The water was approximately the color of chocolate mousse.
From there we went in smaller vans along a 1 to 2 lane road. Along the
road we saw a man leading a pig on a rope (think Mother Goose), a cart
drawn by oxen, and a field being irrigated by a foot-driven tredle pump.
We were taken to a rural market -- it actually had most of the same
items as the urban markets we had been wading through. Live fish, dried
fish, assorted greens, interesting fruit, bars of soap, plastic
carriers, flip-flops..... I did find a cute Dahlia-sized granddaughter
dress in the market for $2.00. At that price, I could not bring myself
to bargain.
We also went to a small pottery factory that turned out utilitarian
pots. The person seated on the floor with the wheel had enough clay
loaded to make about 6 pots -- about 1 per minute. The wheel was
turned by a standing woman kicking it. Even the little pots were too
heavy for a souvenir.
Perhaps the most interesting stop was the Monastery/orphanage. Our
students really came through with games that could be played with little
language. And they used the tour guide to translate instructions for
some of the games. We had brought badmitten -- which they enjoyed. We
watched a death-defying climb to get the shuttlecock off the roof
(successfully). I tried origami, and interestingly, one of the kids
(maybe 10 years old) already knew how to make a crane.
More than half of the students in my classes today want to return to
Myanmar -- me too. It will be very interesting to follow this place for
the next 10 and 20 years.
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