There did not seem to be too much more to do in Kochi, Kerala, India after a couple of days. I rummaged in the guide book for nearby sites, and saw an interesting backwaters area and high country with tea. Escaping the heat to the mountains sounded like a good idea, but I did not know how to go about setting this up.
In India, we had a travel advisor-type person aboard the ship each day from 10 to 4. So Will and I each packed a small backpack for a few days with the hope that we could make this work. When he came aboard at 10:00 am, I showed the travel advisor the things that we hoped to do...... he told us that we could hire a driver, he indicated what it should cost, and he told us how to go about finding a good driver.
Then he asked about where we were going to stay. There was a well-reviewed place listed in Lonely Planet, and he said it would be the best place in the area. He made a reservation and negotiated a price.
Then we debarked and forged our way through the throng of taxi drivers to the "facilitation center." Inside a basketball court sized space was one desk and 4 chairs. We showed the fellow there where we wanted to go, and asked (as we had been told to do) for an experienced driver. The fellow then talked to some drivers and negotiated a price for us. During this process, we kept asking, is he experienced?
A piece of paper was filled out with the driver's name and license number -- one copy for us and one for the facilitation center.
This set us on a good course! He said that he would drive carefully, and did. Good thing too, because there were about a billion switchbacks on the trip. Drivers get commissions by delivering customers, so we were primed to resist his suggestions. But when he suggested that we stop at a spice garden and spice shop, we were pleased to do so. The most local spices were pepper and cardamom, but we saw samples of many others, and even bought a little.
Then our driver suggested an elephant ride. Lots of students had done rides in Burma, and we were not that attracted to the idea. But we were driving right by, so stopped and did an elephant ride for a half hour through some woods/tropical landscape. It was actually quite fun. The driver then offered all kinds of other options for the evening -- night jeep ride, massage, theater production, who knows what else. When we turned him down, he asked if we were happy. When we said yes, he was fine and relaxed. We agreed on a morning meeting time -- it turns out that there was a bunkroom for him to stay in at this place.
The driver phoned ahead for directions to our place, and found it easily. Totally lovely. We had a large room with a balcony looking over the tea fields and the mountains. Air was good, it was cooler, and altogether pleasant. We arrived in time for tea -- with Indian snacky things. After tea we walked up to a promontory to get a view over the whole area.
Later was a grand Indian dinner -- excellent soup, 4 curry dishes, rice, local bread, and a desert. I took pictures of every dish. The Kerala cuisine has lots of coconut, and thus tastes very rich. After supper, a staff person was waiting with a flashlight to show us back to our room.
Monday, March 24, 2014
Have you ever seen a Chinese or Japanese person with missing teeth?
This was one of the lines by our guide at the tea museum in Munnar, Karela, India. The guide was trying to convince us to drink green tea. Have you ever seen a Chinese or Japanese person with a belly? How come Chinese and Japanese people look younger than their years? It is all because of green tea.
He suggests that you put a few green tea leaves in room temperature water in the morning, and drink from the bottle all day, topping it up as needed. He suggests that the different substances will be extracted from the tea at different rates throughout the day. And without using hot water, it will never taste bitter. Good for your teeth, heart, skin, cholesterol, diabetes, and entire body.
The Brits brought the tea to India and planted it on mountainous land that was too steep for much else. Some of the plants in Munnar are 150 years old, and in China and Japan there are 400 year old plants. If you did not prune it, the plants would be 30 foot tall trees! In India, each bush/tree is pruned every 7 days, year round, forever.
Because of the constant pruning, the view of the hillsides is constantly the color of the fresh bright spring-green leaves that have been growing only a few days. It is an incredible view, kilometer after kilometer, up into the mountains. In Japan the tea is grown in straight rows (no surprise there). In India it is grown in more of a quilt pattern. This quilt becomes particularly festive when the women are there picking the tea.
In fact, it is not so much picked these days as pruned. They have clippers with a bag attached for collecting the prunings. Originally women picked the tea because of their fine motor dexterity; they still have this job. In fact, one man "controls" a crew of 25 women. Before they pick, they wrap their lower body in oilcloth or thick cloth, put on a long sleeve shirt, put cloths on their heads to protect from the sun, and put on gloves.
The original plantation that was the site of the tea museum was established quite early. As with other company towns around the world, workers were paid in company-specific coins. They were given health care and day care. Cows were introduced to give milk, and a veterinarian was hired.
What is the situation today? The workers own the plantation, and there is a veterinary research institute nearby. I cannot tell you what they are paid, and what expenses that needs to cover.....
He suggests that you put a few green tea leaves in room temperature water in the morning, and drink from the bottle all day, topping it up as needed. He suggests that the different substances will be extracted from the tea at different rates throughout the day. And without using hot water, it will never taste bitter. Good for your teeth, heart, skin, cholesterol, diabetes, and entire body.
The Brits brought the tea to India and planted it on mountainous land that was too steep for much else. Some of the plants in Munnar are 150 years old, and in China and Japan there are 400 year old plants. If you did not prune it, the plants would be 30 foot tall trees! In India, each bush/tree is pruned every 7 days, year round, forever.
Because of the constant pruning, the view of the hillsides is constantly the color of the fresh bright spring-green leaves that have been growing only a few days. It is an incredible view, kilometer after kilometer, up into the mountains. In Japan the tea is grown in straight rows (no surprise there). In India it is grown in more of a quilt pattern. This quilt becomes particularly festive when the women are there picking the tea.
In fact, it is not so much picked these days as pruned. They have clippers with a bag attached for collecting the prunings. Originally women picked the tea because of their fine motor dexterity; they still have this job. In fact, one man "controls" a crew of 25 women. Before they pick, they wrap their lower body in oilcloth or thick cloth, put on a long sleeve shirt, put cloths on their heads to protect from the sun, and put on gloves.
The original plantation that was the site of the tea museum was established quite early. As with other company towns around the world, workers were paid in company-specific coins. They were given health care and day care. Cows were introduced to give milk, and a veterinarian was hired.
What is the situation today? The workers own the plantation, and there is a veterinary research institute nearby. I cannot tell you what they are paid, and what expenses that needs to cover.....
Darker blue seas
Darker blue seas with more whitecaps, and spray blowing off the tops of the white caps. This image goes with a rocking ship. You can see the swells getting larger as we head south. Will it get rockier as we keep going south?
Meclizine is supplanting ginger as the treatment for seasickness, and students are getting dilated pupils again from mishandling their patches. (Hands much be thoroughly washed immediately.)
On the other hand, we have been having beautiful sunsets, and we have a study day coming up so I can catch up on grading. We will also have the ship-wide Olympics that day.
Meclizine is supplanting ginger as the treatment for seasickness, and students are getting dilated pupils again from mishandling their patches. (Hands much be thoroughly washed immediately.)
On the other hand, we have been having beautiful sunsets, and we have a study day coming up so I can catch up on grading. We will also have the ship-wide Olympics that day.
Dark blue sea
On the dark blue sea are scattered whitecaps. At bed-time last night, there was an announcement that we should put our cameras and laptops on the floor because rough seas were expected. This morning there are small piles of barf bags strategically placed around the ship. We are on the stretch of the Indian Ocean from the 20th to 35th latitude and to the point of confluence with the Atlantic Ocean. I guess this could be a rough stretch.
Every time there are public address announcements throughout the ship, I think of the public address system that Dan had in his house in Muraoka, Japan.
At 5:57 last night, I looked out my portside window to see a student sprinting for all he was worth towards the gangway to make the 6:00 on ship time. Students were hanging over the rail cheering him on! And they were ecstatic when he made it. Not quite everyone did make it on time -- they get "dock time" and have to stay on the ship for a few hours in the next port when everyone gets off.
Every time there are public address announcements throughout the ship, I think of the public address system that Dan had in his house in Muraoka, Japan.
At 5:57 last night, I looked out my portside window to see a student sprinting for all he was worth towards the gangway to make the 6:00 on ship time. Students were hanging over the rail cheering him on! And they were ecstatic when he made it. Not quite everyone did make it on time -- they get "dock time" and have to stay on the ship for a few hours in the next port when everyone gets off.
Mauritius
Arriving by ship this morning was spectacular -- looks a lot like Hilo. The volcanic mountains rose up from green plains and a small section of double rainbow welcomed us to breakfast on the deck as we pulled into the dock. As soon as it was docked, 5 men with drums and 5 women in traditonal costumes began sega music and dance. Very much a Caribbean voice with French overtones.
It took only an hour for us to clear the ship -- meaning that immigration came on board and checked each of us. We were each handed our passport by the purser, showed it (and an embarcation card that we had filled out earlier on the voyage) to the immigration official, and then gave our passport back to the ship. As soon as all 700 or so of us had marched through, the ship was cleared for departure. Just at that moment a downpour began.
First stop was to a clinic so that Will could renew a prescription blood pressure medication that he needs for the rest of the trip. We were greeted first in French, but they spoke good English too. He had his blood pressure taken right there in the waiting room, then the Dr. came to talk to him right there. She took him to the pharmacy -- the pharmacy had to rummage a bit to find it, but we were out of there in under an hour.
Students were planning a day in the sun on a variety of catamarans, some with unlimited rum. The rain put a damper on some of those activities. Apparently the catamarans never left shore.
We had got a car and driver for the day, so we went from the clinic to the other side of the island to see a wildlife preserve. But first lunch. The driver took us to an excellent place with local food looking out over small boats on the sea. The food was between Indian and French, with a Caribbean overtone. Fried aubergine appetizer, then for me a mixed seafood dish with 3 chutneys and a cup of dahl.
Unfortunately they were not running the boat over to the wildlife preserve in the rain. They also indicated that the footing would be slippery. Since the professor who had gone home with a broken hip (actually turned out to be a broken femur) had slipped on a wet rock, we let that idea go. In the rain we took a short walk on the beach at the blue bay nearby and went to the historical museum.
At the historical museum we saw actual dodo bird bones as well a paintings and prints from the time of the dodo. Learned more about the not too pretty history of this place. The place was known by Arab and Malay sailors before being "discovered" in 1505 by the Portuguese. The Dutch settled in 1698 and left in 1710. They clubbed the friendly dodo for food -- not too much else to eat, except fruit bats. The Dutch also had brought rats with them -- and probably the rats helped eliminate the dodo by eating the eggs.
After the Dutch left, the French arrived in 1715. At first they did not create a settlement, but soon saw its strategic advantages as a refuge from Indian Ocean typhoons. They began to develop the country, build roads, build a hospital, and created sugar plantations. By 1978 there were 42,828 people living here in Mauritius; all but 2456 were enslaved. They built slave ships, made rum and prospered.
In 1810, the British fought and took over the place. The folks from Mauritius went to England to try to get back some of the freedoms that the French had taken. All they got back was freedom of the press. When the slaves were freed in 1835, the British began bringing laborers from India -- with little better than slave conditions. About 500,000 came in through the arrival point of Aapravasi Ghat Immigration Depot -- their Ellis Island.
Mauritius got its independence in 1968. Sugar cane is still grown all over the island, but tourism is probably a bigger industry. Textiles used to be big, but China can make them more cheaply. The people are 68% Indo-Mauritian, 27% Creole, 3% Sino-Mauritian, and 1% Franco-Mauritian. We drove past all kinds of religious buildings.
After the museum, we came back to the Pt. Louis side of the island and went to a market. I really love the markets in these countries! The trays of herbs had coriander, mint, thyme, chives, and curry leaves. Clearly this is a very international mix. Eggplant (like lunch), a few kinds of greens, oranges, tomatoes, potatoes, carrots, sections of large squash, other vine vegetables, and other fruits and vegetables were on display.
We succeeded in getting some dodo bird paraphernalia for Nick -- a small carved one, a dodo bird bottle opener, and dodo bird playing cards. We passed by most of the dodo bird t-shirts, but they did have a cute on in a Madeline size. There were also dodo bird sarongs, beach towels, wood boxes, magnets, pens, and postcards.....
The first two music stores we found were closed, but the third had a sampler of the sega music. It is fun getting back on the ship and hearing what everyone did. One girl went with others to visit a glass factory and actually got to do the blowing! Four girls started to hike, even in the downpour, but a jogger told them that the trail would be washed out and unsafe. He worked in the mayor's office, and took them back there. He worked in recreation, and had a closet full of soccer shirts. He gave them a dry layer before introducing them to the mayor. She invited them for lunch, gave them bags of Pt. Louis trinkets, and went with them to the market to help them bargain!
It took only an hour for us to clear the ship -- meaning that immigration came on board and checked each of us. We were each handed our passport by the purser, showed it (and an embarcation card that we had filled out earlier on the voyage) to the immigration official, and then gave our passport back to the ship. As soon as all 700 or so of us had marched through, the ship was cleared for departure. Just at that moment a downpour began.
First stop was to a clinic so that Will could renew a prescription blood pressure medication that he needs for the rest of the trip. We were greeted first in French, but they spoke good English too. He had his blood pressure taken right there in the waiting room, then the Dr. came to talk to him right there. She took him to the pharmacy -- the pharmacy had to rummage a bit to find it, but we were out of there in under an hour.
Students were planning a day in the sun on a variety of catamarans, some with unlimited rum. The rain put a damper on some of those activities. Apparently the catamarans never left shore.
We had got a car and driver for the day, so we went from the clinic to the other side of the island to see a wildlife preserve. But first lunch. The driver took us to an excellent place with local food looking out over small boats on the sea. The food was between Indian and French, with a Caribbean overtone. Fried aubergine appetizer, then for me a mixed seafood dish with 3 chutneys and a cup of dahl.
Unfortunately they were not running the boat over to the wildlife preserve in the rain. They also indicated that the footing would be slippery. Since the professor who had gone home with a broken hip (actually turned out to be a broken femur) had slipped on a wet rock, we let that idea go. In the rain we took a short walk on the beach at the blue bay nearby and went to the historical museum.
At the historical museum we saw actual dodo bird bones as well a paintings and prints from the time of the dodo. Learned more about the not too pretty history of this place. The place was known by Arab and Malay sailors before being "discovered" in 1505 by the Portuguese. The Dutch settled in 1698 and left in 1710. They clubbed the friendly dodo for food -- not too much else to eat, except fruit bats. The Dutch also had brought rats with them -- and probably the rats helped eliminate the dodo by eating the eggs.
After the Dutch left, the French arrived in 1715. At first they did not create a settlement, but soon saw its strategic advantages as a refuge from Indian Ocean typhoons. They began to develop the country, build roads, build a hospital, and created sugar plantations. By 1978 there were 42,828 people living here in Mauritius; all but 2456 were enslaved. They built slave ships, made rum and prospered.
In 1810, the British fought and took over the place. The folks from Mauritius went to England to try to get back some of the freedoms that the French had taken. All they got back was freedom of the press. When the slaves were freed in 1835, the British began bringing laborers from India -- with little better than slave conditions. About 500,000 came in through the arrival point of Aapravasi Ghat Immigration Depot -- their Ellis Island.
Mauritius got its independence in 1968. Sugar cane is still grown all over the island, but tourism is probably a bigger industry. Textiles used to be big, but China can make them more cheaply. The people are 68% Indo-Mauritian, 27% Creole, 3% Sino-Mauritian, and 1% Franco-Mauritian. We drove past all kinds of religious buildings.
After the museum, we came back to the Pt. Louis side of the island and went to a market. I really love the markets in these countries! The trays of herbs had coriander, mint, thyme, chives, and curry leaves. Clearly this is a very international mix. Eggplant (like lunch), a few kinds of greens, oranges, tomatoes, potatoes, carrots, sections of large squash, other vine vegetables, and other fruits and vegetables were on display.
We succeeded in getting some dodo bird paraphernalia for Nick -- a small carved one, a dodo bird bottle opener, and dodo bird playing cards. We passed by most of the dodo bird t-shirts, but they did have a cute on in a Madeline size. There were also dodo bird sarongs, beach towels, wood boxes, magnets, pens, and postcards.....
The first two music stores we found were closed, but the third had a sampler of the sega music. It is fun getting back on the ship and hearing what everyone did. One girl went with others to visit a glass factory and actually got to do the blowing! Four girls started to hike, even in the downpour, but a jogger told them that the trail would be washed out and unsafe. He worked in the mayor's office, and took them back there. He worked in recreation, and had a closet full of soccer shirts. He gave them a dry layer before introducing them to the mayor. She invited them for lunch, gave them bags of Pt. Louis trinkets, and went with them to the market to help them bargain!
At sea
What are the pleasures of the voyage?
The ship experience. Being rocked to sleep, looking out at the ever changing sea and sky. This morning the sea was fairly dark, with a few low whitecaps, and there were 3 layers of dramatic clouds -- with the waxing gibus moon.
Daily life. No shopping, cooking, cleaning, laundry, or general maintenance activity. No running around from place to place. Go to the gym -- up 3 floors. Library, computer room, and the union, up 2 floors. dining rooms -- choice of 2, plus eating on the aft deck. Health clinic, down 2 floors. Forget something -- run back to the room.
Healthy living. Fresh fruits and vegetables. Fish every dinner. Lots of stairs. Treadmill (and other options).
Community living. We are a self contained caring community. Meals can be as leisurely as anyone would wish, and there are lots of interesting people to eat with every meal. Nurse, doctor, resident advisers, trip planers, deans, 40 professors, slacker spouses, life-long learners, and 550 students. Before each port, we hear many plans, and after, everyone has many experiences to share.
Honest work. Teaching is meaningful, and the students are largely quite committed. They appreciate getting to know faculty, and are open about sharing their experiences. Psychology is a particularly relvant topic for these experiences. Hard work, but rewarding.
The ship experience. Being rocked to sleep, looking out at the ever changing sea and sky. This morning the sea was fairly dark, with a few low whitecaps, and there were 3 layers of dramatic clouds -- with the waxing gibus moon.
Daily life. No shopping, cooking, cleaning, laundry, or general maintenance activity. No running around from place to place. Go to the gym -- up 3 floors. Library, computer room, and the union, up 2 floors. dining rooms -- choice of 2, plus eating on the aft deck. Health clinic, down 2 floors. Forget something -- run back to the room.
Healthy living. Fresh fruits and vegetables. Fish every dinner. Lots of stairs. Treadmill (and other options).
Community living. We are a self contained caring community. Meals can be as leisurely as anyone would wish, and there are lots of interesting people to eat with every meal. Nurse, doctor, resident advisers, trip planers, deans, 40 professors, slacker spouses, life-long learners, and 550 students. Before each port, we hear many plans, and after, everyone has many experiences to share.
Honest work. Teaching is meaningful, and the students are largely quite committed. They appreciate getting to know faculty, and are open about sharing their experiences. Psychology is a particularly relvant topic for these experiences. Hard work, but rewarding.
Kochi Orphanage/surfing/yoga
Kochi is in south west India in the State of Karela -- a fairly progressive place by Indian standards.
One of the students on the ship is neighbors in the US to someone who is supporting the girls' orphanage in Fort Kochi. She invited Will and along on a visit. A few years ago this American was doing the typical tourist things, and asked his driver what the Catholic Church was doing to help the poor in India. The driver took him to the orphanage, and he was smitten with the need. The girls had been removed from very difficult circumstances, and were sleeping on concrete floors
Since then, this benefactor has raised funds in the US for building a new wing for the girls, furnishing it with beds, and connected them with an American surf club and an American yoga group. For the girls who do not have families, the surf club comes from the US and takes them to the beach for a week to learn surfing. The girls wear their own long pants and the club brings them rash guards. The yoga group comes from the US and does yoga with the girls for a couple weeks.
Where do the girls come from? Some have been beggars on the streets. The nun described one girl who had been in the orphanage for a few days, and suggested to the nun that they go begging. She showed the nun how to do it, and said she would split the money they raised. One girl had been blinded in one eye to help her as a beggar. Others girls have no parents, or only one parent who cannot provide.
The support from the US has allowed the girls to continue their education past high school, and has provided the dowry that has allowed some to get married. When I asked the nun what were the most significant expenses, she indicated that the medical expenses and the counseling expenses were the most significant expenses. This particular place takes girls from 5 years up.
Better for children have families, but these caring nuns and their American benefactor were providing something special for these 40 girls. They were not idealistic -- the nuns talked about the difficulties in winning the girls' trust, motivating them to study, and keeping them busy. Very interesting experience.
One of the students on the ship is neighbors in the US to someone who is supporting the girls' orphanage in Fort Kochi. She invited Will and along on a visit. A few years ago this American was doing the typical tourist things, and asked his driver what the Catholic Church was doing to help the poor in India. The driver took him to the orphanage, and he was smitten with the need. The girls had been removed from very difficult circumstances, and were sleeping on concrete floors
Since then, this benefactor has raised funds in the US for building a new wing for the girls, furnishing it with beds, and connected them with an American surf club and an American yoga group. For the girls who do not have families, the surf club comes from the US and takes them to the beach for a week to learn surfing. The girls wear their own long pants and the club brings them rash guards. The yoga group comes from the US and does yoga with the girls for a couple weeks.
Where do the girls come from? Some have been beggars on the streets. The nun described one girl who had been in the orphanage for a few days, and suggested to the nun that they go begging. She showed the nun how to do it, and said she would split the money they raised. One girl had been blinded in one eye to help her as a beggar. Others girls have no parents, or only one parent who cannot provide.
The support from the US has allowed the girls to continue their education past high school, and has provided the dowry that has allowed some to get married. When I asked the nun what were the most significant expenses, she indicated that the medical expenses and the counseling expenses were the most significant expenses. This particular place takes girls from 5 years up.
Better for children have families, but these caring nuns and their American benefactor were providing something special for these 40 girls. They were not idealistic -- the nuns talked about the difficulties in winning the girls' trust, motivating them to study, and keeping them busy. Very interesting experience.
From polliwog to shellback
Since the 1500's, sailors, crew and passengers have been paying tribute to Neptune as they have crossed the equator. Imagine the early thoughts -- will we stick to the earth when we are upside down? Can we find the way now that the north star is out of sight? Are there sea monsters in these vast southern seas? Will it continue to get hotter and hotter as we travel south?
Today was Neptune day -- secrets not to be revealed. But we all did out best to placate Neptune. And, I might note, there are quite a few men and women wandering around the ship with shaved heads......
The equatorial sun is very strong, but we still enjoy eating meals on the aft deck. After the excellent food in India, the ship's cafeteria food is feeling a little basic. But I am thankful that they have fresh salad, fruit, and vegetables every day.
Today was Neptune day -- secrets not to be revealed. But we all did out best to placate Neptune. And, I might note, there are quite a few men and women wandering around the ship with shaved heads......
The equatorial sun is very strong, but we still enjoy eating meals on the aft deck. After the excellent food in India, the ship's cafeteria food is feeling a little basic. But I am thankful that they have fresh salad, fruit, and vegetables every day.
Sunday, March 16, 2014
There but for the grace of god........
One of our faculty members was traveling with a Semester at Sea trip in northern India and slipped on a wet rock. She happened to be on the trip with our Semester at Sea doctor -- good thing. Her hip is broken -- she is now in her second hospital, and arrangements have been made for medical evacuation -- she has to fly home on a stretcher. Fortunately we are all covered by insurance.
Her three classes have been divided up, and I will be covering one called "Development Communication" for the rest of the semester. They are looking for some help for me.
Her three classes have been divided up, and I will be covering one called "Development Communication" for the rest of the semester. They are looking for some help for me.
Village trip in Kerala, India with Semester at Sea
For this trip, 27 students, staff, faculty and life-long-learners went about an hour away by bus. We were met with leis (sold in the markets, and usually placed at the Hindu and Buddhist temples, rather than on people). We were also given fresh coconut to drink -- they just lop off the top in front of you and stick in a straw. The experiences in this community highlighted a women's development program that had created small groups of women with specific skills.
One of the groups of women performed traditional dances for us outside. Another group gave us a cooking demonstration, then served us each a traditional Kerala meal on a banana leaf. I have the recipes for two of the dishes. Lots of coconut is used in Kerala (south west India).
We were in and outside of someone's home -- they are teachers who have lived in this area for a long time, and are working with neighbors to create opportunities for women. We toured the garden, and several of the students tried on saris.
Many extended family members gathered around, and I had the chance to talk with a group of 13-15 year old boys. They were finishing exams now, and were planning a summer vacation of cricket, football (not American football), and taking classes at a local IT center. I also had the chance to hold the hand of the 94 year old grandmother who was being taken care of by her daughters-in-law as well as professional help during the day while the daughters-in-law were at work. And I spoke with an uncle who was spending a furlough with his family while on leave from employment in the middle east. Over the days in India, we talked to several people who had worked outside India for a time.
Last stop was a handweaving factory. We saw undyed thread piled by the front door, and had seen dyed thread drying in back yards nearby. Three women were sitting on the floor winding the thread from skeins to spindles. One fellow was drawing the yarn from spindles to a huge warping wheel -- the warp that he was tying was probably 25 meters or more. And about 6 men and women were working at a very traditional 4 harness loom with a fly shuttle. I was able to purchase some of the cloth that they had woven. The size of the pieces were appropriate for the diaper-like garment that Ghandi wore, and the patterns of each was unique.
Pictures not taken: There were about 60 people marking along the street in a demonstration -- it seemingly had to do with upcoming elections. And thee was a handmade string of hammer and sickle banners, also related to the upcoming election.
One of the groups of women performed traditional dances for us outside. Another group gave us a cooking demonstration, then served us each a traditional Kerala meal on a banana leaf. I have the recipes for two of the dishes. Lots of coconut is used in Kerala (south west India).
We were in and outside of someone's home -- they are teachers who have lived in this area for a long time, and are working with neighbors to create opportunities for women. We toured the garden, and several of the students tried on saris.
Many extended family members gathered around, and I had the chance to talk with a group of 13-15 year old boys. They were finishing exams now, and were planning a summer vacation of cricket, football (not American football), and taking classes at a local IT center. I also had the chance to hold the hand of the 94 year old grandmother who was being taken care of by her daughters-in-law as well as professional help during the day while the daughters-in-law were at work. And I spoke with an uncle who was spending a furlough with his family while on leave from employment in the middle east. Over the days in India, we talked to several people who had worked outside India for a time.
Last stop was a handweaving factory. We saw undyed thread piled by the front door, and had seen dyed thread drying in back yards nearby. Three women were sitting on the floor winding the thread from skeins to spindles. One fellow was drawing the yarn from spindles to a huge warping wheel -- the warp that he was tying was probably 25 meters or more. And about 6 men and women were working at a very traditional 4 harness loom with a fly shuttle. I was able to purchase some of the cloth that they had woven. The size of the pieces were appropriate for the diaper-like garment that Ghandi wore, and the patterns of each was unique.
Pictures not taken: There were about 60 people marking along the street in a demonstration -- it seemingly had to do with upcoming elections. And thee was a handmade string of hammer and sickle banners, also related to the upcoming election.
What side of the road to they drive on?
At this point, I am so confused, I have no idea. Don't let me in a car.
Hawaii -- it is the US, and I think I remember that we drive on the right.
Japan -- they drive on the left. Why? Right handed Samuri wear their sword on the left. They walked on the left so that no one would bump their sword. In fact, if you bumped a Samuari's sword, he could cut your head off. So that created a great incentive to keep the Samuari to the left and the oncoming traffic to the right.
Shanghai, China. Thinking back to the bus who almost ran us over, he was on the right.
Hong Kong -- used to be British -- drove on the left.
Vietnam. Pretty much any side they wanted, in any direction. Mostly on the right, unless you have some reason to want to be on the left. Scooters all over. We saw a small scooter/bike accident when the bike was in the middle of a stream of scooters going the other way.
Myanmar. They drive on the left with right hand drive vehicles. They cannot afford new cars or buses, so they use mostly ones imported from Japan. The bus has a driver and a helper -- the helper has to look to the left if they need to turn or change lanes.
India. Mostly in the middle, neither on the right or the left. Roads are narrow, and drivers seem to go in the middle until they meet another car and go to the left.
When we get to Mauritius, we don't even know if there will be cars.....
Hawaii -- it is the US, and I think I remember that we drive on the right.
Japan -- they drive on the left. Why? Right handed Samuri wear their sword on the left. They walked on the left so that no one would bump their sword. In fact, if you bumped a Samuari's sword, he could cut your head off. So that created a great incentive to keep the Samuari to the left and the oncoming traffic to the right.
Shanghai, China. Thinking back to the bus who almost ran us over, he was on the right.
Hong Kong -- used to be British -- drove on the left.
Vietnam. Pretty much any side they wanted, in any direction. Mostly on the right, unless you have some reason to want to be on the left. Scooters all over. We saw a small scooter/bike accident when the bike was in the middle of a stream of scooters going the other way.
Myanmar. They drive on the left with right hand drive vehicles. They cannot afford new cars or buses, so they use mostly ones imported from Japan. The bus has a driver and a helper -- the helper has to look to the left if they need to turn or change lanes.
India. Mostly in the middle, neither on the right or the left. Roads are narrow, and drivers seem to go in the middle until they meet another car and go to the left.
When we get to Mauritius, we don't even know if there will be cars.....
First day in India
What will it be like? Do they still wear saris? Will there be cows wandering around? How dirty will it be?
Eight or more Indian immigration officers got on board the ship to take us through a face-to-face immigration process -- they stamped a disembarkation card and an "official" copy of our passport. And then we were free to go out. Unfortunately, Will was under the weather, and I was sure not going to be wandering around alone.
Emily and her 3 kids (ages 2,4, and 7) and Eric and his two kids (4 and 8) were going to look for a park while their spouses worked on the ship (student life and field programs), so I joined the kid trek. Leaving the ship, we were bombarded by 20 taxi drivers wanting to take us somewhere, anywhere. We went inside a completely empty terminal building and spoke to the one person there about taking a ferry from the port island to the Old Fort Cochin.
We were pointed in the right direction to walk a short distance to the ferry dock. As we passed the fence at the edge of the terminal area, we were bombarded by 20 more taxi drivers. Most of the drivers were promoting their "tuk tuk" or motorized rickshaw. These are 3-wheel vehicles that can hold two (or 6) people plus the driver. As we worked to turn them away, they said the ferry was not running because it wasSunday. When we did not buy that line, they said it was not going to come for 2 hours. We sat quietly and patiently waiting for the ferry.
In 20 minutes, we were on the ferry, and a ticket person on board charged us 4 rupee per adult (and nothing for the kids). That amounts to about a nickle. As we were getting off at the same time that people were boarding, we entered into a swarm of saris -- answering the sari question right away.
After a short distance we came to Chinese fishing nets -- large nets that are dipped into the water, left there a little while, then lifted to bring up small river fish. The booms holding the net are heavy, so there is a counterweight system consisting of ropes tied to create a string of rock. These were also of interest to tourists from India, and even from other parts of Kochi. They found us interesting, and we mutually took pictures. I also handed out some Washington, D.C. postcards.
Wandering on, we came to a children's park. Because it was Sunday, a lot of kids, accompanied by their parents, were playing there, and our 5 were glad to join in. As in Myanmar, there were a few feral dogs who wandered through. Unlike anywhere I have ever been, a goat wandered through too! The kids especially liked the equipment that spun around. I was particularly impressed with the wonderful colors of the clothes of the women and daughters in the park.
After that we looked for an ATM. On the way the sidewalk was blocked by a couple of goats, and there were several more in the street. So we did not see a cow wandering around, but goats seemed more to scale anyway. There was a fellow outside the ATM who indicated that it did not work, and that he could change our money. Turned out, no big surprise, that it was working just fine. After a couple of shopping stops, we made a snack and bathroom stop. At that point a couple of fellows in the Indian Navy came by and wanted their pictures taken with the kids!
To return to the ship, we walked back to the ferry dock. On this end, it was quite crowded and there were long ticket lines. We were gradually made to understand that there were separate ticket lines for men and women. We asked about the leaving time for our island and got aboard. It stopped at a different place than we left from , and we asked if it would go to the other side of the island. Some misunderstanding there. It went instead to the mainland -- where we had to get off and buy 3 more 4 rupee tickets for our return. Its next stop was on our island -- although not where we had left from. It turned out to be only a short walk from there to the ship.
Eight or more Indian immigration officers got on board the ship to take us through a face-to-face immigration process -- they stamped a disembarkation card and an "official" copy of our passport. And then we were free to go out. Unfortunately, Will was under the weather, and I was sure not going to be wandering around alone.
Emily and her 3 kids (ages 2,4, and 7) and Eric and his two kids (4 and 8) were going to look for a park while their spouses worked on the ship (student life and field programs), so I joined the kid trek. Leaving the ship, we were bombarded by 20 taxi drivers wanting to take us somewhere, anywhere. We went inside a completely empty terminal building and spoke to the one person there about taking a ferry from the port island to the Old Fort Cochin.
We were pointed in the right direction to walk a short distance to the ferry dock. As we passed the fence at the edge of the terminal area, we were bombarded by 20 more taxi drivers. Most of the drivers were promoting their "tuk tuk" or motorized rickshaw. These are 3-wheel vehicles that can hold two (or 6) people plus the driver. As we worked to turn them away, they said the ferry was not running because it wasSunday. When we did not buy that line, they said it was not going to come for 2 hours. We sat quietly and patiently waiting for the ferry.
In 20 minutes, we were on the ferry, and a ticket person on board charged us 4 rupee per adult (and nothing for the kids). That amounts to about a nickle. As we were getting off at the same time that people were boarding, we entered into a swarm of saris -- answering the sari question right away.
After a short distance we came to Chinese fishing nets -- large nets that are dipped into the water, left there a little while, then lifted to bring up small river fish. The booms holding the net are heavy, so there is a counterweight system consisting of ropes tied to create a string of rock. These were also of interest to tourists from India, and even from other parts of Kochi. They found us interesting, and we mutually took pictures. I also handed out some Washington, D.C. postcards.
Wandering on, we came to a children's park. Because it was Sunday, a lot of kids, accompanied by their parents, were playing there, and our 5 were glad to join in. As in Myanmar, there were a few feral dogs who wandered through. Unlike anywhere I have ever been, a goat wandered through too! The kids especially liked the equipment that spun around. I was particularly impressed with the wonderful colors of the clothes of the women and daughters in the park.
After that we looked for an ATM. On the way the sidewalk was blocked by a couple of goats, and there were several more in the street. So we did not see a cow wandering around, but goats seemed more to scale anyway. There was a fellow outside the ATM who indicated that it did not work, and that he could change our money. Turned out, no big surprise, that it was working just fine. After a couple of shopping stops, we made a snack and bathroom stop. At that point a couple of fellows in the Indian Navy came by and wanted their pictures taken with the kids!
To return to the ship, we walked back to the ferry dock. On this end, it was quite crowded and there were long ticket lines. We were gradually made to understand that there were separate ticket lines for men and women. We asked about the leaving time for our island and got aboard. It stopped at a different place than we left from , and we asked if it would go to the other side of the island. Some misunderstanding there. It went instead to the mainland -- where we had to get off and buy 3 more 4 rupee tickets for our return. Its next stop was on our island -- although not where we had left from. It turned out to be only a short walk from there to the ship.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)